Replace & Calibrate A Seisco 28KW Tankless Water Heater


We got trouble again we’ve got a  tankless water heater in fact we have  two of them the one up of the other day  sprung a leak not exactly sure wind and  it was a small leak but after further  examination looked like the leak had  been present for some time because there  was calcium deposit at the bottom of the  the heating unit so we contacted the  company that installed it and it was out  of warranty it’s about over two years  old the company who manufactured it will  support the parts but they wouldn’t  replace the unit totally unless we  played a pretty big fee for it but they  would supply the parts without for not  too much money actually although they  wanted about $160 deposit to ensure that.

I returned the parts to him so anyway I  decided to go that route we’re gonna get  the parts for their deposit and once we  replace the parts send it back to the  company and they’ll refund us our  deposit so what I thought I’d do is make  this video of how to fix a tankless  water heater and the first thing you  have to know about that is to when you  troubleshoot it and everything you’ve  got to make sure the power is off now my  case I’ve got a load center here in my  garage  that is the first circuit breaker and  then next to the water heater itself  there’s another set of breakers so  you’re not gonna get hurt doing this job  if you kill the power to it so that’s  what I’m gonna do I don’t want to get  hurt so anyway take a tight shot in here  at my load center  and I’ve got two tankless water heaters  one over here’s.

Two circuits for it and  then two circuits for the for the one  that we’re going to work on these are  actually four breakers they’re marked as  60 amp breakers and it takes four of  them believe it or not to run this one I  think it’s a 28 kW tankless water heater  it takes four circuits there to gang  them up and so it’s 2 to 20 volt  circuits and so you want to make sure  those things are turned off and in the  commercial business I do some commercial  work for some large companies and they  have a system they call lockout tagout  this particular load Center doesn’t have  a way really to lockout and tagout these  breakers so I’m just going to mark them  with some tape and close the door and  put some tape on it so that nobody by  mistake comes along and turns those  things on well I don’t want it on so  anyway that’s the load Center in the  garage make sure the power is off before  you do any work on this tankless water  heater ok ok/

Well here we are in the  closet where the tankless water heater  is and now the first thing we did we  through the breakers in the garage in  the load Center and this has two sub  panels here in the closet  it’s got in there mark circuit one two  circuit three and four and of course you  want to make sure they’re they’re all  off ok so that’s handy it’s right here  in front of our face it’s pretty obvious  and we’re not going to be turning those  on while we’ve got these  we’re working with this with this system  okay so now that it’s powered off we’re  gonna have to disconnect a lot of these  cables while he’s wired or so what I did  was I went around to each one of them  each one of the wires and I marked it I  either put in a little wire marker tag  like this it’s like a ziploc tie cable  tie but you can write a name on it as to  what it is and then sit block it to the  cable itself.

I’ve got some of these  wire markers a little pre-printed wire  marketers that you can take off here and  and then wrap around each one of the  wires and give it a special number so  that’s what I’ve done on all the wires  on this box getting ready to disconnect  the the PC board it controls this whole  thing and once that’s taken off  disconnected and taken off then we can  remove the tank you can see up here it’s  plumbed here’s our water input or cold  water input comes in to the tankless  water heater heats up and then goes out  with this red line here that’s hot water  so the problem was it was leaking right  here on this this one chamber is leaking  they’re coming down here and if you can  see it but it’s left some calcium  deposits here in the bottom of this case  so now that it’s all marked I’m going to  disconnect the cables and pull up PC  board and that’ll be the next step okay  here we are with the PC board removed.

There’s just four screws on the PC board  and four screws for those high-powered I  think they’re Triax  that you’re supposed to use heat sink  compound when you put them back on so no  white heat sink compound seem to be  plenty of it on there but you can get  that stuff at RadioShack it’s pretty  common it’s just called heat sink  compound it’s white and you don’t want  to get on your clothes but it’s like a  little white paste like toothpaste kind  of but don’t use toothpaste okay so  that’s the tankless water heater with  the PC board slash brains high power  controller removed okay I got a couple  of Crescent wrenches and we’re gonna  disconnect the plumbing right now so  we’ve got a small crescent wrench for  this bottom nut okay  and then a large one for this top one  we’ll just loosen that up a little Union  fitting here okay like so we’ll do that  on both sides all right and that’ll that  will free the plumbing from the the  tanks of the other wire here okay  we’ve got the two lower screws of the  tank taking off.

So I’ll just take off  the top two screws you can see we’ve got  the unions that’s connected up here for  the cold water and hot water out and the  two screws and I’ll be holding this tank  in my hands so let me give that a try  I got you okay got this thing in my hand  down we’re going to take it out and put  on a bench okay  okay this has four screws back here  that’s holding it in its case so I have  to remove that to get the sheet metal  out from around the tank so let’s go  ahead and do that I’ll zoom this in so  you can get a little closer look at it  okay I think once we take these four  screws out just got my I guess they call  that keyhole slot loosen them and you  can just pick it up out of it it’ll pick  up I’ll just go ahead and take them out  okay all right well you got a couple  things hold me back here is a ground  wire I forgot to take off so I’m gonna  have to go ahead and do that but this  uses one of our ground wire right here  I’ve got take off or I’d be holding tank  in my hand so we’ll do that and I’ll get  back to you okay we got one wire to take  off here this is,

One of those nylon lock  nuts so I got a wrench here and hold  this hose and just baby unscrewed  and that’s holy ground love to so remind  me to put that back together so I’m  gonna just keep it all together here  right now now we won’t get away from in  okay see it’s one of those nylon lock  nuts so they’re great once you tighten  them up thee they never never come loose  by themselves so they’re fantastic so  here we are you got this baby out of the  case and you can see the tanks here are  in halves are bolted together and  they’ve given us both tanks but we’ve  got to take these end caps off for the  plumbing fittings so that’s our next job  done bolt up from the from the tanks and  both these old side pieces onto the new  tank okay this should be fun you know  when I called the factory about this  water heater was leaking and we were  talking about prices and stuff when we  decided to just go ahead and send me the  tank and that was leaking and basically  I was fixing it fix it from there.

They  did send me a few gaskets to go with it  they call this the chamber body assembly  for CH 10k and they sent it FedEx which  was nicely they got to it pretty quick  it’s that from szybko se is Co  international in Houston Texas  they call it the global leader in  tankless technology well the way this  thing broke I’m not sure that I won’t  agree with that but I’ll hold judgment  right now it should never have cracked  it shouldn’t have leaked and to be first  class I think they should have just sent  me a whole new assembly instead of the  parts to fix it but I can understand so  we’ll give this a try they did give me  an option I think I could buy a new one  for 360 bucks or something like that  or I could get the parts for free and  hire a plumber or or do it myself so I  decided to give it a shot and if all  else fails I got a plumber and standby  so we’ll see how it goes this kind of  could be eliminar strings but they  basically want to remove all the  components from here and put it on to  the new tank and so that’s what I’m  gonna try and do here okay I might as  well just let the tape run I’ve got a  long tape so I’ll just let it run and  I’ll probably be fast-forwarding this  section but at least let you guys see  what’s going on and how to do it maybe  in the fast-forward fashion there may be  a few chuckles in between.

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